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 Post subject: RPi3
PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2017 2:47 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2017 3:14 pm
Posts: 83
Location: Surrey, UK
Hi Spark,

I use it purely for hosting Logitech Media Server (LMS), NOT as a streamer. I use the ultraRendu for streaming.

I have loaded piCorePlayer, turned off everything apart from LMS.

The RP3 is powered by a R-Core LPSU via two 1A 5v LT3045s, I find it very obvious when I upgrade the power. ALSO, the level of current available, at 0.5A it just falls over after about 10 minutes. With 1A it is good, but the music is slightly less ballsy, at 2A = excellent.

R-Core + LT3045 is better than the Uptone LPS-1, which in turn was better than the SBooster (in spite of its greater current delivery).

Moving LMS off my NAS and onto the RPi3 was a nice step up.

M


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:55 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2015 3:39 pm
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Location: irvine, CA, US
I am looking for usb cable with has only usb 2.0 inhibitors us and other side is usb which is used for power can some one please suggest the cable.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2017 8:15 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2009 6:45 am
Posts: 67
Location: kitchener, ON, CA
I'm trying to get the 5V into the UpTone USPCB, but in the way that I always used for my DIY adapters it doesn't work!
I wonder what I'm doing wrong?!
Any thoughts are more than welcome!

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2017 10:16 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 04, 2017 6:14 pm
Posts: 17
Location: Gainesville, FL, US
sima66, I assume you've already checked continuity to insure that every path you want is connected and that none are shorted. Even if you have, check it carefully again, it's easy to get turned around. ARe there any other components on that boards that might been disconnected or fried? What is that wire for, where does it go, and could it be removed for troubleshooting?

thisisvv, I'm not sure what you're asking for, is it a usb cable (or connector ie short, hard cable?) with some kind of filter, but it allows power thru? That description sounds like an AQ jitterbug. If it's power from another source, the lightspeed cables are good. For a hard connector, I've been very pleased with the Uptone USPCB, it's far better than any usb cable I've tried, but I haven't tried that many.

marcus1 and other newbies, did we scare you off? I agree with Mr Underhill that reading the whole thread is very useful to avoid retreads. Part of Bob's irritation was explaining the same things again and again, like "hey I just found the intona, it seems pretty good, would that be better?". He tried and ranked many things, so some can be put in their place in history. "what's best" changes over time, but what's not best ought to recede into memory. Also Bob said DIY isn't for wimps and that's so true, but there are many useful things that can be done without soldering. I'm so glad I found this thread as it got me going and going in more or less the right direction.

I really appreciate the activity here. I'll have some cap results to report re teradak dc-30w soon. I tried a "new" nichicon and will compare to Bob's favorite.

Mr Underhill, did you notice any decrease in dynamics when using your isolation transformer? That's been my experience when using them in past, it sounds less noisy, but has a slight euphonic sound with rounded bass and treble and less dynamic. I really appreciate your trying and sharing about the parallel 3045-S providing more guts. Did you buy from Alexi on ebay? I think I'll give that a try rather than wait to find out about the next big thing with 3045 boards that Bob teased us about. Anyone have news on that? Don't hold back on us Alex, we need advice from those in the know!

I've been working thru the DIY DC power cable thread on CA, it's worth reading, thanks Alex. I keep going back and forth on the type of cable, diy vs ghent, etc. Bob said Ghent cables were very good and they're just canare so that backs up Swenson's belief that the geometry is king, but I still think everything matters so I'm leaning towards diy with mundorf silver/gold wire, at least from the 3045 to device. I've also been debating changing from the DC2.1 connectors for in between y cables, but then the overall setup is less flexible so I'll probably avoid that.

If anyone has good pointers to emerging tech on other threads, I'd be grateful for pointers. it's one of the things I miss most about Bob. I'm working on diy cable lifters I heard about on agon, and will post here someday soon. Has anyone compared USB devices with newer accusilicon clocks?

Has anyone done much of an ethernet cable shoot out? Expensive ethernet cables are one thing that Bob didn't seem to try, and positive feedback said they were essential in their review of the merging tech NADAC. I want one with clarity but solid, full bass and dynamics. Mr Underhill, have you ever thought about moving your digital setup closer to your analog as a test to see if that long run of ethernet has an audible effect? I'm suspicious about that approach.

I will admit I'm have major racking stress, there's just not enough room for me to properly mount all these devices. I'm considering building some custom extended shelves with constrained layers, but I do too much thinking and not enough building so that will wait a little longer. You guys are an inspiration, as was Bob. I plan to reread Mr Underhill's adventures and will surely come back with questions then.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2017 11:01 am 
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Location: kitchener, ON, CA
danfl75 wrote:
sima66, I assume you've already checked continuity to insure that every path you want is connected and that none are shorted. Even if you have, check it carefully again, it's easy to get turned around. ARe there any other components on that boards that might been disconnected or fried? What is that wire for, where does it go, and could it be removed for troubleshooting?


That wires are to ad external 5V into the B connector of the USPCB. They are just soldered on pin 1 and 4.
The USPCB adapter is still fully functional when power comes from the A connector, or when is used in the way is meant.
Problem is that in my USB chain I have no 5V power coming into A connector and that's why I have need to ad external 5V for my Diverter.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2017 12:15 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2017 3:10 am
Posts: 63
Location: Madrid, , ES
[quote="sima66 "]I'm trying to get the 5V into the UpTone USPCB, but in the way that I always used for my DIY adapters it doesn't work!
I wonder what I'm doing wrong?!
Any thoughts are more than welcome!

Hello sima66, I feel the problems.

I would advise you not to reconnect external power until you verify that you have everything right. Unless you are sure there is no short circuit.
¿When you say that it does not work for you, I understand that the PC does not recognize the diverter/wadia?

If you are going to use the USPCB in a fixed way with external power, I would desolder the brass pins. Do not cut, desolder and solder the cables to the connection pins of the USB B connector. You can re-solder them later as they were if you want. It is also important to keep the cables firmly attached.

¿Are you sure that the external 5V supply provides the necessary current? ¿You are using an external source with the possibility of measuring consumption?


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 5:44 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2017 3:14 pm
Posts: 83
Location: Surrey, UK
Hi Dan,

WRT Isolation Transformers:
I assume you mean the one that protects my digital back end. The answer is NO. The effect of doing that work was to lower the noise floor.
I did notice a loss in dynamics when I powered the Raspberry Pi 3 with one 1A LT3045 - but then the RPi expects 2.5A. By paralleling two 1A I restored the blood & guts; I am toying with adding a third.

Alexi on ebay = Yes. Good chap.

I am going to be revisiting the earthing on my main HiFi this weekend. A fellow forum member from the WigWam came over yesterday with his Chord Hugo, to compare with my Border Patrol DAC. The comparison showed that the BP is more propulsive and mid centric, both of which I like .....BUT, on turning up the wick I found the BP has some high frequency tizz, which the Hugo did not; the Hugo was running off its internal battery.

So: doing some work to determine what is going on.

M


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 8:11 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2009 6:45 am
Posts: 67
Location: kitchener, ON, CA
sima66 wrote:
danfl75 wrote:
sima66, I assume you've already checked continuity to insure that every path you want is connected and that none are shorted. Even if you have, check it carefully again, it's easy to get turned around. ARe there any other components on that boards that might been disconnected or fried? What is that wire for, where does it go, and could it be removed for troubleshooting?


UPDATE:
Problem was in the 5V LT3045 500mA.
Soon as I switched to 1A LT3045 it works!
I don't know if was something faulty with the first LT, because the power consumption of the Diverter is less than 350mA and it should be enough!


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